The Southern Scenic Route - Te Anau to Dunedin

We had a lovely couple of days of days of in Te Anau on xmas and boxing day with Nicks family. This meant eating vast amounts of junk food - but hey we will cycle it off in the next weekk - and checking out Milford Sound. Unfortunately the day we went to Milford was the only rainy day over the past week but I think the cloud added to the majesty of the sound, which is actually a fiord (valley carved by glacier).

After over indulging ourselves we set off towards Dunedin. We were following the southern scenic route a very quiet highway that took us past Lake Manapouri towards the south coast. The ride out of Te Anau was our first truly flat day (but it still had a steep 300m high hill) so far. But we also had a strong tail wind so we were flying along. We rode our longest day 110km into a town called Tuatapere which is the sausage capital of NZ, but alas being the 27th of december the factory was closed. So no sausages for dinner. But we did manage to have the best ice cream so far. We were sitting outside a takeaway shop and everyone kept on walking out with huge ice creams, so we decided to get one. We ordered a one scoop for a mere $1.50 and the lady stacked it so high with 3 large scoops that for the second cone we only ordered a kidy cone which was still huge!!

After Tuatapere we reached the southern coast and rode along the coast to Invercargill, unlucky for us the wind was blowing from the east so we had a slight head wind, but all the trees were nearly horizontal from westerly winds (which would have given us a tail wind....). We stopped off along the coast and collected some lovely smoothed gems from the beaches and had a delicious lunch of blue cod on the beach at Riverton (claimed to be NZ's oldest town??).

We had a nice ride into Invercargill and were taken back by the wide streets and cycle lanes on nearly every road! Fantastic! We stayed at Nicks friends Naomis house for 2 nights while we were in Invercargill. On our day off we went down to Bluff for the morning then went and saw the Tuataras at the museum which was very cool.

After invercargill we headed along the Catlin coast, in our opinion one of the best kept secrets in the south island. We took a very quiet road which was sometimes gravel along the coast for two days. In the mornings we hardly saw a car for the first couple of hours!! The road is quite hilly in places and there are plenty of little side trips off the main road to go to, such as remote lighthouses and plenty of waterfalls. We were sucked into riding 100m of the road to check out Niagra Falls which was no more than a rock with a bit of water rushing over it!! But there were plenty of other 'real' waterfalls which were cascading down the cliffs.

We overnighted at a amazing places called Curio Bay. We were given the best campsite (because we didnt have a car) that was on a cliff overlooking the beach. We even had our own picnic table and enjoyed a lovely dinner while watching Hectors Dolphins and seals swimming in the bay!! After dinner we wandered to the near by fossilised forest and sat on the rocks and watched some yellow eye penguins come out of the water to their nests in the bushes. There were also some huge sea lions sitting on the rocks waiting for the penguins to come in so they could eat them, but luckily that didnt happen.

We then rode onto Kaka Point our spot for new years, which was a nice little beach which had all of Balclutha (only 20km away) staying at it. There was a big fire on the beach for New Years eve but other that that we had a pretty quiet night.

The next day we had off and rode out to Nugget Point lighthouse where again there was plenty of wildlife to see, big sealions on the beach that you could walk very close to, and heaps swimming off the rocks.

The Catlins is an awesome place to get away from most of the usual tourist traffic and there is so much wildlife and lovely forests to explore.

On the 2nd of Jan we rode into Dunedin and for the first time this trip we had to ride on the number 1 highway which being the south Island was pretty quiet. After 40km on it we turned onto a quiet road and rode through Taieri mouth and brighton into Dunedin where we would have a couple of days off before heading to Queenstown for Naomis wedding via the Otago Rail trail.

Over the ranges - Wanaka to Te Anau

On our day off in Wanaka we wondered the town, enjoying the sunny and hot weather which we have all been craving. It was a sunday in Wanaka so there were a few markets that we could check out and there were lots of people about especially being a few days before xmas.

Unfortunately Arnaud came down with a stomach bug after eating a dodgy lamb kebab, although only hours earlier Tahlia claimed her chicken kebab was the best she ever had!! Considering Arnaud's condition he and Tahlia decided to stay and extra day in Wanaka then either bus to Queenstown to meet us or go on further to Te Anau.

So back as a two, we headed toward Queenstown over the famous Crown Range Road. The day started with a slight rise as we followed a river up towards Cardrona. We were doing good time as we got to Cadrona before the famous pub had opened, so instead we took a few photos and had a picnic opposite the pub, while many cars drove up, stopped jumped out, took one photo then back in the car and off again, not our kind of travel!!

After Cadrona we had a pretty steep 12km climb to the top of the Crown Range, at 1080m elevation it is the highest sealed road in NZ. The road has recently been sealed so was very smooth and a pleasure to ride on. At the summit we met a group doing a package cycle tour where all their gear is carried for them, and it was very rewarding to be sitting at the top after lugging all our gear up the hill.



Nat at the top of the Crown Range (1080m) the highest sealed road in NZ!!

Now for the fun part, a very steep descent followed by about 10 switchback corners that resembled the famous Alpe D'huez in france. The downhill section had stunning vistas of Lake Wakatipu and Queenstown with most of the mountains in the area still with fresh snow from the cold snap a few nights ago. On our way to Queenstown we stopped in at charming Arrowtown for a fresh fruit ice cream before pedalling around the back roads to Queenstown.

We only had an overnight stop in Queenstown as we will be back here in 3 weeks for Nicks friend, Naomis wedding.

The following morning, we caught the old steamship - The Earnslaw - to Walter Peak sheep station where we would start our next off road section, a two day jaunt to Te Anau. The ship was fantastic, it had a large area cut out of the deck so we could see the old steam engines pumping away.


Nat and Nick after we got off the SSS Earnslaw steamship

We arrived just before lunch at the sheep station and got off with most of the other passengers and unloaded our bikes which were wheeled on next to all the food supplies for the farm. This farm is the largest Merino farm in NZ, and it was here where they developed the method for high country farming which is still used today. What that method is, I do not know......

We planned to only ride 50km to Mavora Lakes where we would camp beside the lake before riding on to Te Anau on xmas eve. The road is 85km of gravel before joining up with the main road from Queenstown to Te Anau. The gravel road is actually a public road, but we only saw 2 other cars which were farmers who farm the land.

The ride was absolutely stunning, the first 10km winded alongside Lake Wakatipu and with mountainous backdrops we had to pinch ourselves a few times! After leaving the lake we headed up a valley which had a very steep 400m climb in 4km (10%). This is ok on sealed roads but it is hard going with fully loaded bikes on gravel. But after getting to the top we were on a large grassy plateau with no trees to be seen. It is so liberating to be in such a remote area with no one else around and we both enjoyed it very much. We rode along for about 30km before we started descending into some pine forests which surround Mavora Lakes. We rode a short way of the road and found a secluded camping site on the side of the lake. We jumped in to the ice cold lake for a wash before having dinner on a log and watching the sun set slowly behind the hills (which is about 10pm at the moment!!). One of our favourite days riding so far!!


The gravel road alongside Lake Wakatipu


Nat climbing up the gravel road

The next day we were up at sunrise (6am) and headed off toward Te Anau, not as pretty as yesterday but nonetheless it is nice to be off the road and away from Traffic.


Nick enjoying coffee at sunrise (yes we carry our stove top espresso maker!!)

We arrived in Te Anau and met up with Tahlia and Arnaud who was getting over his sickness and we also met up with Nick's family for xmas.

The cold, wet, tired and hungry cyclist - Haast to Wanaka

We left the west coast at Haast and made our way over the Haast Pass towards Wanaka. The 19th was Nick's birthday, and what better way to celebrate than to climb over a pass - nick loves climbing!!

Nat got up at 5am to make pancakes with berries and banana for everyone for breaky, which was a fantastic treat and a great way to start the day. The weather turned back to rain but at least there was not much wind. We rode along the Haast river for 50km before hitting the main climb which suddenly ramped towards the heavens!! The first 2.5km climbed 300m, averaging over 10%! Most of it was 15% which is a struggle to ride on a fully loaded bike, but everyone managed to finish the 10km climb and celebrate at the top with a photo with the summit sign and a chocolate bar!


Nick and Arnaud at a snack stop on the Haast Pass road


The descent was fantastic and we rode on to stay at a small alpine town called Makarora. Since it was raining and Nick's birthday we stayed in a 4 bed cabin which was a nice change from the tent and we went out to the bar for a few beers and some pool.

The next day we were meant to have an easy 65km ride into Wanaka, but we woke up to strong southerly winds (head wind) and driving rain. We had a slow morning, dreading getting out into the rain. But by check out at 10am we had put on the wet weather gear and headed off. IT WAS FREEZING. My thermometer on my computer said it was 5 degrees and the rain was ice cold. We managed to battle 25km before taking refuge in a corrugated iron bus shelter. We all huddled up and put on the camp stoves and boiled some Milo and Miso soup to heat us up. Tahlia and Arnaud, from brisbane were finding it very cold and were constantly shivering. After being in the shelter for one hour we changed our wet socks and lined our shoes with plastic bags then headed off. We had decided to stop at Lake Hawea only 23km instead of getting to Wanaka. It was just too cold. We arrived at Hawea after battling the wind, cold and rain it took us over 2hrs to ride 23km!! We again got a cabin and stood in the showers for a decent while to warm up our fingers and toes.


Soup and Milo in the bus shelter from the freezing weather

The next morning we got up and saw that there was snow on all the hills around us!! And the locals said it was in single digits all day. I would say it was near zero with the windchill!!! But now the weather is blue skies and the snow capped mountains are very pretty. We have ridden non stop the last 10 days, so are relaxing in Wanaka for a day before heading over the Crown range to Queenstown then Te Anau.


Lake Wanaka and Snow capped mountains

The Wet West Coast - Greymouth to Haast

After our quick afternoon stopover in Greymouth, the following morning we met up with our Australian friends Tahlia and Arnaud who are joining us for a while. They caught the train over from Christchurch, so after it pulled into Greymouth at lunchtime we set off down the west coast.

We stopped off overnight at Ross, another small ex-gold mining town. It was Arnaud's birthday so we went to the local pub (we were also camping in their backyard) for a few beers. The five locals drinking their were very friendly and got chatting with us. We got an invite from one lady who ran a moss farm. Moss farm?? Well it appears since it is so damp here they grow moss, dry it out in sheds then ship it to Japan for Orchid farms! Apparently the moss stops bugs.



Nat along the west coast

After Ross we headed toward the Glaciers at Franz Joseph. We had two days of solid rain before arriving at Franz Joseph wondering if we would even see the glaciers. Well we couldnt see them from a distance but we decided to do a glacier walk. By now the rain was driving down but we paid our $95 and put on all the wet weather gear provided by the guides and walked up the valley. The rain wasnt too bad because we could still see most of the glacier but after 5 hours walking we were all wet to the bones. Apparently it rains here 290 days a year!!! The glaciers were very impressive and we felt very insignificant compared to their size and activeness (there were lost of rocks falling around us!!)

By now we had three days in a row of rain and we woke up to more rain. We were still camping but the tent was holding up just. But packing away and putting up a wet tent everyday is not fun. Nat also started to get a bit of a cold but was battling away.


Lunch at a lake on the one sunny day!


After Franz, we headed further down the coast on the way to Haast. The day into Haast was stunning, blue sky and quite warm, a welcome relief! For this part of the ride we were close to the coast so had some stunning views of the coast and the southern alps.


Now we have cycling buddies we have photos of the two of us!!


Overall we had 5 wet days and one sunny day on the west coast, but the glaciers were fantastic!

Over Lewis Pass to the West Coast

Arriving in Hanmer Springs after the rough Rainbow Track was fantastic, as it meant we could sit in the thermal hot pools and soak away any aching muscles.

After a day off there we tackeld the alpine mountain range by heading over to the west coast via the Lewis Pass. (The number 7 highway north of Arthur's Pass). We started out on the bikes at 7am, making plenty of stops along the way. On the road our cycling guidebook described stops to contain 'table, water and sandflies'. And wasnt he correct. At one such picnic stop we were absolutely swarmed by sandflies we couldnt even stop for lunch. Sandflies are definately underestimated as not only do they buzz around you, they also bite quite painfully. Next time we are in a large enough town we vowed to get an insect net.

Eventually by late afternoon we made it over the 912m pass, and then could enjoy the nice descent into Maruria Springs. We were looking forward to enjoy another thermal spring to soak in that evening, only to discover the camping ground there charged $25 per person (!!!!). This was far to much for our budget so we headed off further down the road to a lovely Department of Conservation campsite for a more reasonable $5 per person. There we woofed down a whole bag of pasta and hit the sack after our longest day so far (92km).

Nat near the top of Lewis Pass

The next day we had a descent most of the morning, and then for lunch arrived in a nice old town called Reefton. This town is famous for being the first town in the Southern Hemisphere to have street lamps in 1888.

Some locals at Reefton

So after our venison pie (a local speciality) we made it another 15km down the road to a town called Ikamatua. This was a pretty small place to stop, but the smallest places are always the hidden gems. The campsite here had an old train station that had been restored to use as the facilities.

Natalie at the campsite in Ikamatua in a restored train station

The local pub was very local indeed, with everyone staring at us when they walked in the door as we obviously werent from around there. But it was a great little place to stop for the night to recharge the legs.

From Ikamatua we road an easy 55km into Greymouth down a quite back road. Upon arrival in Greymouth on a Saturday we found that everything shut at noon, and is closed on Sundays. So we had very little to do other than go on a Monteiths brewery tour. Greymouth is the home of the Monteiths brewery, yet now they only do Monteiths Original and Black on the premises. It was a great tour, but the best part was the beer tasting at the end. And also having a good pouring beer from tap without getting too much of a head. Nick seem to master this, yet Natalie failed miserably despite her hospitality experience.

Nick at the Monteiths Brewery

Nelson to Hanmer Springs

After a lovely time in Abel Tasman National Park we headed south towards the Nelson Lakes area.

We took two days to ride from Abel Tasman to St Arnaud. We were recommended a very quiet backroad by a local from Motueka that would get us off the main highways. The road followed the Motueka River upstream with a couple of small saddles along the way to keep us honest. We stopped off at Tapawera overnight, which is a tiny town next to the Kahurangi National Park. The town consisted of a food shop, pub, campground and a small train station with no track. Apparently (according to the even smalller museum within the old train station) that the Nelson to Greymouth train track used to run through here and they decided to rip the track up in the 1950's??. So a group of nine local women camped on the track in protest. There were heaps of photos which showed the women still knitting their husbands jumpers while on protest!! The campsground here was pretty much someones backyard, but the hosts were lovely and had home grown herbs available for cooking!!

The next day we rode further south to St Arnaud, a small town on the edge of Lake Rotoiti that is the gateway to the Nelson Lakes National park, with heaps of tramping and other outdoor activities. We stayed in a DOC campsite situated right on the edge of the lake with stunning views of the long narrow lake with steep mountains bounding it either side. The only dampner was the clouds of sandflies that were ever present!! Citronella candels did nothing and insect repellent (which we discovered has expired...thanks mum) only got the sandflies stuck to our skin. So dinner in the tent it was!

Nick coming down from the top of a hill near St Arnaud

From St Arnaud we planned to ride the Rainbow Track. A 4WD gravel road that is a service road for some electricity pilons. It is also a historic route that Maori and Eurpean settlers used for trading purposes. It is 120km long and crosses the Island Saddle at 1400m one of the highest passable roads in NZ! We tackled this road in 2 days.

The first day of the Rainbow Track followed the Wairau River upstream so the riding was mostly gentle uphills with a few minor hills thrown in. After about 10km we reached our first ford, but being only a few metres wide we decided to ride it and got through OK. After our second one only 1km later we started having bets on how many there would be. On about our 4th ford, it was a lot bigger, but after succesfully riding all the previous ones Nat went through first. This one was quite wide, about 20m across. Nat managed to get two thirds across when her front wheel hit a large rock and set her heading upstream!! We put her foot down but was in deep water and ended up on her side with her bike on top. She quickly got up and pushed her bike out. Nats panniers have waterproof fabric - great for heavy rain but not for swimming - so she got a lot of water in one of her panniers and her front bag. With a wet sleeping bag, camera and clothes she still had a very positive attitude. After this incident we preceeded with caution, taking our shoes off and pushing our bikes across the freezing streams.

Nat crossing a ford

We started the day in slight drizzle but by lunch time the rain set in. We were aided by a slight tail wind that increased in strength throughout the day. By mid afternoon the wind was over 100km/h and we even got blown off into the ditch a few times by large gusts. But the best bit was when we got blown 50m UPHILL on a 10degree climb without having to pedal!!

A view down the valley (1200m altitude) Nat in full wet weather gear

The scenery of this ride was fantastic. We started at 600m altitude in lush beech forest in a wide valley, but soon climbed above the bush line where rocky scraggy slopes narrowed in around the road and river. Above 1000m altidue the narrow gorge then opend up into a alpine desert with tussock grass the only thing surviving up here.

We stayed overnight in a DOC hut, which was fantastic after a day of wind and rain. THe hut also had a fireplace so Nick was out chopping wood in the rain so we had some wood for the fire. We managed to dry out all Nats stuff, but thanks to our reliable wet weather clothes we remained dry, apart from our feet.

The cosy DOC hut on the Rainbow Track

The next day we had to tackle the Island Saddle at 1400m. This was a very steep 2km climb that ascended over 200m elevation. The gravel was very slippery after the rain last night and which was still coming down. At one point the road was over 15% gradient so we had to push our bikes up the last 1km of the climb. But after this we had a even slower downhill due to the dodgy road surface but then a gentle downhill all the way to Hanmer Spring, where we are now enjoying a day off wandering around town and soaking in the thermal springs!!

Tomorrow we are off over Lindis Pass towards Greymouth where we meet up with Tahlia and Arnaud from Australia for a few weeks.

The Abel Tasman

Riding out of Nelson was fantastic, as the excellent Nelson council has provided bicyle lanes in and out of the city. So we happily rode along the bike path to Richmond, avoiding all contact with any trucks. From there the roads got quieter and quieter until we ended up in Kaiteriteri.

The camp ground in Kaiteriteri is in a fantastic spot, set right on the beach. The beach is beautiful golden sand in a quiet bay. This is the southern point for trips to the Abel Tasman National Park.

The amazing views from the Abel Tasman walking track

We spent two nights here and on our day off we spoiled ourselves to a day trip into the National Park by boat. It was a three hour trip up the coast of the National Park stopping off at bays along the way. Then we hopped off the boat and did a 2 hour walk. It was absolutely stunning. Highly recommended to anyone heading to the south island. We were also blessed with great weather and the water was warm enough to swim in for more than a minute. We only wish that we had more time to do some of the longer walks.


Our lunch possie on the Abel Tasman